Sounds like, even though they don't SELL alternators, they are friends with someone that DOES. You don't have to replace the whole damn thing if the voltage regulator gives up the goat, or vice versa. IMO the biggest benefit of a 3-wire simply boils down to cost. Hell, my Galaxie doesn't have a choke, it has to go over 1000 RPM every time I start it. 6 AWG will be plenty for as short a run as you're talking about (and it sounds like you got things pretty under control, considering you ran 00 back to the battery) Yes, a 3 wire alternator would need just as big a battery cable as a single wire. It' not my car anyway so if he wants to run a 1 wire- all I'm interested in is the power supply big enough so I don't burn down his car. Not trying to start an arguement on 1 wire vs 3 wire but read the article again & pretend you don't have 50 year old wiring, or are swapping out a 3 wire 40 amp to a 100 amp 1 wire & making no wire changes, or aren't installing it on a muscle car w/ long runs or aren't swapping from a gen to a 100 amp alternator w/ no other changes. Now my friend has a 1 wire & wants my help, so I'm going to help out.īTW- even if it was a 100 amp 3 wire- it still would need a 6 gauge wire to batt terminal- wouldn't it? Who does? 1st time you raise RPM- it excites & charges. So what if it doesn't excite at idle? I don't start cars & drive- keeping the RPM under 1000 rpm anyway. Despite what his article says- even though he doesn't sell alternators- it's skewed towards the 3 wire & poo poos 1 wires (except Powerhouse ). Mark at Mad Electrical sells alternator wiring kits. His car is newly wired w/ a Ron Francis kit (by me). I will run probably less than 5 foot of 6 ga from start solonoid to alternator. Battery is in trunk w/ a 2/0 weld cable from battery to starter (w/ remote solonoid) Most of that (IMO mind ya)- relates to muscle cars & stock wiring w/ long runs & running a gen or idiot light & installing a 1 wire bigger alternator on too small wiring.
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